The Historic Ivrea Carnival is rooted in a rich tapestry of rituals and traditions that have strengthened the sense of community for centuries, with food forming an integral part of this cultural heritage. From the Sundays leading up to Carnival to the days of the celebration itself, long-established culinary traditions and the lively food initiatives organised by the Aranceri come together to offer everyone a true journey through the history, culture and spirit of the local area.
The city’s “Fagiolate” carry on the tradition of the ancient medieval confraternities, which once prepared and distributed this dish to those in need. Although centuries have passed, the recipe for the traditional “fagioli grassi” (rich beans) remains unchanged: the beans are slow-cooked over an open fire in large cauldrons together with less prized cuts of pork, allowing the flavours to develop before being served the following morning.
On Ash Wednesday, the people of Ivrea gather in Piazza Lamarmora to enjoy another traditional dish: polenta and salt cod. Its distribution symbolically brings the Carnival celebrations to a close and marks the beginning of Lent, reviving a neighbourhood custom dating back to the sixteenth century. Revived after the Second World War by the “Comitato della Croazia”, this tradition involves dozens of volunteers every year in a preparation that lasts more than ten days and takes on the character of a true ritual.
No journey through the Carnival’s culinary traditions would be complete without a visit to the battle squares, where it is easy to come across impromptu refreshments and carefully prepared food and drink stations designed, quite literally, to fuel both the fervour and the spirit of friendship that define the Battle. These traditions are often informal, diverse and spontaneous, varying from one team to another and from one square to the next. Perhaps the best way to experience the city during Carnival is simply to lose yourself among these countless expressions of the celebration, where history and light-hearted conviviality come together.
